Monday, September 23, 2013

El camotero

Tweeeeeeeeeet.

When I first heard the sound I thought it was a flute. I didn't hear it everyday, but repeatedly starting in the early evening there was this strange sound. I had no idea what it was, I just could hear that it was moving. Unfortunately, I was always in my room with the window open, but far from any possibility to trace the origin.

In a way it reminded me of Cambodia. When I was in Phnom Penh there was also a sound which started every early evening. It was not a flute, but bamboo bars hit together by the vendor of Kuy Teav, rice noodles. Fot the sound the vendor makes, Khmer call his dish "Kuy Teav Pok Pak".

But back to Mexico. Who was the flute player? Well, what do I have Mexican roomies for. Of course J. new the answer: El camotero.

At first I got it a bit wrong, thanks to the Latin American singularities using Spanish words. Camote did tell me something, but actually I thought he was talking about the typical sweet of Puebla:
But then I figured out that in Latin America they say camote instead of boniato when talking about sweet potatoes. Ah, this also describes why the sweet is called like this, since it's sweet potato with sugar.

Well, anyway, the camotero is therefore a vendor of sweet potatoes. On YouTube you can find pretty nice videos:
The vendor tells that apart from sweet potatoes he also sells plátanos machos (plaintains) and calabaza (pumpkin). Oh, how I miss especially the latter. At the latest with beginning of autumn I crave pumpkin soup...

Erm, back on topic. As you can see in the video the tweeeet sound actually doesn't come from a flute, but is produced by releasing steam via a valve. The Spanish Wikipedia even features an article about the Carrito de los camotes - the vendor's vehicle. Especially the article's second picture creates such a special atmosphere - love this kind of ancient traditions:
Source: Wikipedia
Actually, the piping sound is nearly the same as in Japan - and there it's not a noodle seller or something, but indeed also a van full of sweet potatoes:
The back of the truck says 石焼いも, which doesn't mean anything else but stone roasted sweet potato. Before I could read Japanese I always thought the signs would mean something mysterious and profound... well...

The Japanese and Mexican versions might be quite similar, but the latter has one huge advantage, namely when it comes to purchasing power:
Source: Tokyo Daily Photo
 The sign says Lサイズ(半切り)300円, which translates to L size (half cut) 300 Yen. 300 Yen, that's some 2.25 euros (and before the Japanese currency was artificially weakened it was even around 3 euros). Can you imagine: Between 2 or 3 euros for half a potato? In Mexico you get one for less than 50 cents.

And of course there are some more differences. As Mexicans love incredibly sweetened stuff, a sweet potato is not enough. They add sweetened condensed milk, honey, or cinnamon.

I found some more interesting facts about the camotero. His vehicle's weight can be up to some 300kg. This might seem a lot, but it's understandable when considering that it's made out of steel, includes around 10kg wood for the fire, some water for the tweet valve and and of course the food. Apropos: On a regular day the camotero will sell around 40 sweet potatoes and 70 plátanos (plaintains). So, actually he'd better be called platanero. Ok, there might be a reason why he doesn't do so, as he would call himself banana tree then. Better not.

In December Mexicans tend to "misuse" the vendor and to slip him their turkeys, drumsticks, and legs so that they will be deliciously roasted on the burning wood while being pushed through the wintry streets. Poor vendor, even more to carry. If I should ever see him one day, I'll buy an extra big camote from him.

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About the author

German student, studying for two years at UDLAP in Cholula, Mexico