Travel Report 11: San Cristóbal de las Casas

From Tehuantepec (L) to San Cristóbal de las Casas (M)

San Cristóbal was the destination so many fellow students had highly recommended. Accordingly, expectations were considerably high, and to come straight to the point: It didn't live up to them. First thing which turned me off: I arrived at 6 in the morning and it was cold again - freezing cold. The Mexican climate is crazy. The city was nice, indeed, but especially during day time there were so many tourists, you cold hardly walk. Moreover, what I realized (or at least I felt so): You as a güero (blond person) are automatically considered to be a gringo, that is US American. In other words: You are rich and bad. Many people were really nice to me, but many also appeared to be pretty incommunicative and unapproachable. What surprised me: Chiapas is the poorest state in Mexico, but in San Cristóbal you don't notice this at all.

There are a lot of different tribes, and people - especially women - still wear their traditional clothes. But as people didn't seem too friendly, I didn't take too many photos of them. Of course, it's understandable, that they don't want to be treated like animals in the zoo, but for the individual tourist it's still a pitty. Well, at least in my memory the beautiful pictures are kept. Apparently there exists some potential for conflict between the different tribes ("the other tribe is lazy and dishonest" etc.), but I couldn't observe any "negative vibes" between them. I just heard some people complain about certain tribes, that they pretend to be oh so traditional, but in reality they only preserve the things tourists can see and pay for. Well, I don't know but in my opinion this wouldn't be something to condemn...

Chiapas is the centre of the revolutionary leftist group Zapatista Army of National Liberation, which in 1994 claimed more support and autonomy for Chiapas. My perception might have been influenced by this knowledge, but it seemed to me that people really are proud of Chiapas - not Mexico. Two different things. In nearby towns like San Juan Chamula the tribes have set up pretty interesting administration systems: They are kind of autonomous and don't apply the Mexican law. So some weeks before a suspected rapist was burned by their own police. Mexican government tried to prevent this (reportedly...) but officials came to late. Also, in the main local church, which has a Catholic architecture and symbols, shamans kill chickens and practice their own ancient religion. Weird.

Due to the fact that Chiapas is the poorest region, I can believe the existence of the "Cinturón de Miseria" (Belt of Misery) around San Cristóbal. I talked a lot to locals (the ones who where more open), mainly because of my interest in doing an internship in some local fair trade coffee company, and also heared a lot of the (supposed) proceedings in the region. For example, in the misery belt the drug cartels are apparently welcome: They care for the poor and organize some entertaining events. Of course, this is a studied strategy. When the police tries to enter the area, people prevent them from doing so, and drug trafficing can continue "peacefully"...

Originally, I intended to stay in San Cristóbal until the end of my holidays, but as it was soooo cold (great idea to do a biking trip...), I changed my bus ticket and headed to La Palenque.

San Cristóbal de las Casas awaking

Tascalate (Chiapas' typical drink made from a mixture of chocolate, ground pine nuts, achiote, vanilla and sugar)

Local tamales often are stuffed with "Hoja Santa" - Holy leaf

Indigenous people wear their traditional clothes everywhere - very nice to see

 

Oaxaca and Chiapas - home of chocolate, which even I like (this one with cardamom)

Cerro de Guadalupe

Not too many cities boast such a mangificent view...

Chiapas traditional bread soup in its haute cuisine version

San Juan Chamula, city of the Tzotzil Maya who mix Catholicism with Shamanism

Traditional clothed of Tzotzil Mayas in San Juan Chamula

Traditional clothes of Tzotzil Maya in San Lorenzo Zinacantán

Folk art comdey for Epiphany

Biking through Chiapas. Unfortunately (but understandibly) the indigenous people are not happy AT ALL when taking pictures in their territory... so you just have to believe me that landscapes here are soooooo nice...

Orchid garden in Centro Cultural El Carmen